The most common electrical regret in a finished flat isn’t a fault — it’s a point in the wrong place: a switch hidden behind a wardrobe, a TV socket left visible outside the panel, a bedside charging point too far from the bed, an extension board snaking across the kitchen counter because the appliance points were never planned. None of these are expensive to get right before the walls close and the furniture goes in; all of them are expensive to fix afterwards. Here’s how to plan points for the two rooms that need it most.

Why points are planned before carpentry

Once walls are closed and furniture is installed, moving a single point means cutting the finish, re-chasing the wall and patching — visible work. So the points are marked against the final furniture and kitchen layout, not a rough guess, before any carpentry begins. That coordination is the core of our electrical work in Thane approach, and it’s why the electrical plan is locked alongside the design.

Kitchen points — plan against the appliances

A builder-given kitchen layout rarely has enough points for a modern kitchen. Plan a dedicated point for each:

• Chimney — at the right height above the hob, on its own circuit.
• Hob (if electric/induction) and gas safety considerations.
• Refrigerator — a dedicated point, positioned for the fridge’s final location.
• Microwave and oven — at counter or tall-unit height as designed.
• Water purifier — near the sink, above counter.
• Mixer/grinder and small appliances — a run of counter-level points where you actually prep.
• Dishwasher / washing machine — if in the kitchen or utility, with a water-safe point.
• Under-cabinet lighting — wired into the overhead units.

Heavy appliances need proper load separation, not shared circuits — the reasoning is in our guide to home electrical work. All of this is fixed before the modular kitchen is fabricated, so nothing is retrofitted.

Living room points — plan against the furniture

The living room needs layered planning around the TV unit, seating and lighting:

• TV power and data — behind the TV unit, inside the panel, with a cable route to the set-top box and router so nothing dangles.
• Sofa-side points — for lamps and charging, where the seating actually sits.
• Fan and light points — coordinated with the false ceiling.
• Cove and downlight circuits — on separate dimmers so layers work independently; these are planned with the false ceiling work before the ceiling closes.
• AC point — sized and positioned for the indoor unit, clear of the curtain track.
• Spare points — one or two for future use, cheaper now than later.

Coordinating points with furniture

The reason points end up in the wrong place is that they were planned before the furniture layout was final. The switchboard behind the planned wardrobe, the TV socket outside the panel cut-out — both come from a mismatch between the electrical plan and the carpentry plan. When the two are planned together, the point sits where the furniture needs it. That coordination is part of our furniture work in Thane, where the back-panel cut-out and socket position are decided before the unit is built.

A quick planning approach

Walk the final layout room by room with the furniture and appliances marked, and ask of each: what plugs in here, and where will the point sit relative to the furniture? Mark every point against the drawing before carpentry. To plan your kitchen and its points together, our modular kitchen in Thane work starts with a free site visit and a written layout.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should electrical points be planned in a renovation? Before the walls close and the furniture is installed, against the final layout — not as a last-stage fitting. Moving a point afterwards means cutting and patching the finish.

What electrical points does a modular kitchen need? Dedicated points for the chimney, hob, fridge, microwave, oven, water purifier, dishwasher/washing machine and small appliances, plus under-cabinet lighting — with heavy appliances on separated circuits, all fixed before fabrication.

How do I avoid a switch ending up behind a wardrobe? Plan the electrical points and the furniture layout together. Most misplaced points come from marking electrical before the carpentry layout is final.

How many points should a living room have? Enough for the TV and data behind the panel, sofa-side points for lamps and charging, fan and layered-light circuits, an AC point clear of the curtain track, and one or two spares — all planned against the furniture.

Should cove and downlights be on separate switches? Yes — separate dimmer circuits let the lighting layers work independently, and they’re planned with the false ceiling before it closes.

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